American sportswear with a Parisian flair. That’s what Derek Lam is bringing to Câllas, the Italian-based, vertically integrated label (co-owned by his husband, Jan-Hendrik Schlottmann and Marco Panzeri) which he presented a taste of at Hotel Chelsea on Saturday.
Lam joined the company earlier this year as creative director to elevate and bring a point of view to its fashion offering, with a touch of Paris where he’s been living — soaked up from street style and couturiers alike — mixed with his years of designing sportswear in New York.
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Among the standouts were a pair of black trousers with a corset waist that buttons off, a khaki poplin shirtdress with a cape back, and a draped black jersey gown with rippling effect from the shoulder, worn over black pants. Prices should range from about $800 to $2,000.
Coming up in the early 2000s alongside a generation of New York labels that included Proenza Schouler, Jason Wu, Thakoon and Phillip Lim, Lam built his business on tailoring and outerwear with plenty of leather and fur. He was also creative director of Tod’s ready-to-wear from 2005 to 2010.
In 2019, he shuttered his collection business to focus on his contemporary label 10 Crosby, which was acquired by Public Clothing Company in 2020.
After winding down his work at 10 Crosby a year ago, he wasn’t sure he’d return to fashion at all. But he said Saturday, “I’m glad to be back.”
Launch Gallery: Câllas Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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