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Inclusivity, Immersive Shows and Danish Drama: Your Definitive Recap of CPHFW FW24

The Fall/Winter 2024 season of Copenhagen Fashion Week has officially been and gone and as always, guests were treated to a slew of impressive showcases by both established and emerging designers. Fan favorites like ROTATE, Marimekko and Stine Goya made triumphant returns to the runway while emerging labels like Paolina Russo stole the show with its inclusive casting (shoutout Emma Matell), immersive presentation and unique choreography.

Elsewhere, this season saw showcases from brands like Han Kjobenhavn, Baum und Pferdgarten (whose moving chandeliers were nothing short of the IT factor) and STAMM, alongside a slew of presentations and events, plus an exciting closing dinner co-hosted by Hypebeast and Hypebae. Ahead, we revisit some of our favorite moments from CPHFW this season, because let's face it, it was a big one.

Scroll down to see the biggest moments from CPHFW FW24, including the best staging, most inclusive show and our honorable mentions.

Most Talked About Show: Han Kjøbenhavn

copenhagen fashion week designers women body pregnancy disabled model runway
copenhagen fashion week designers women body pregnancy disabled model runway

Like it or hate it, Han Kjobenhavn's dystopian runway was one of those shows that kept people talking. Seemingly inspired by an erotic fusion between Rick Owens and YEEZY, the eerie showcase featured models in oversized silhouettes and leg warmers, paired with exaggerated-length wigs and chain-embellished accessories.

Best Staging and Set Design: Henrik Vibskov

 

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From previous seasons, we've known Danish fashion designer Henrik Vibskov to be one worth keeping an eye on and this FW24 did not disappoint. The theatrical showcase offered plenty of drama and delight, where interpretive dancers in oversized gowns appeared out of the darkness, pulling pink tulle tunnels out of makeshift windows for models to walk in between.

Best Soundtrack: Marimekko

copenhagen fashion week designers women body pregnancy disabled model runway
copenhagen fashion week designers women body pregnancy disabled model runway

Held in a bright and airy art gallery, Marimekko's showcase offered new seasonal iterations of the designer's signature prints, plastered across oversized outerwear, denim co-ords and skirts. While the clothing was a plus, it was the '90s and early 2000s RnB soundtrack that kept guests really enthused, as pumping tracks like Lauryn Hill's "That Thing" and Missy Elliot's "Work It."

Most Inclusive Casting: Paolina Russo

copenhagen fashion week designers women body pregnancy disabled model runway
copenhagen fashion week designers women body pregnancy disabled model runway

As always, Paolina Russo showcases are some of the most inclusive, making a considered effort to highlight and support emerging faces across different ethnicities, abilities and sizes. Teaming up with inclusive casting director Emma Matell, known for her work with London designer Sinead O'Dwyer, Paolina Russo presented an immersive runway full of grunge-inspired fits.

Honorable Mentions: STAMM, Rolf Ekroth, Baum und Pferdgarten

copenhagen fashion week designers women body pregnancy disabled model runway
copenhagen fashion week designers women body pregnancy disabled model runway

With far too many shows to mention, we couldn't recap CPHFW without giving a shoutout to our runners-up. STAMM's showcase offered a runway debut for London-based creative duo and self-proclaimed Dukes of Pechkam, The Flag Twins, while Rolf Ekroth's tactile pieces will live in our heads rent-free. In terms of inclusivity, Baum und Pferdgarten featured a pregnant model on the runway, while ROTATE also takes the cake for its casting of multiple plus size models.